The original and still, to many, the best. Many have failed to 'get' St Andrews, even King James II of Scotland, who banned golf on the historic links in 1427, but once this public course grabs you, it's hard to leave. Rather like the "Auld Grey Toon", itself, the course has more to offer the more you walk around it. Tough to get a tee-time, but then imagine getting a game on Wimbledon's Centre Court? And the St Andrews ballot system is eminently fair.
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8. Loch Lomond
Exclusive to the point of impregnable, the joining fee is near the £60,000 mark. Only the extensive wildlife and Scottish Open attendees get through the huge iron gates otherwise. Areal shame more do not have the chance to experience Tom Weiskopf’s creation, as in terms of its setting, its holes and its immaculate condition the Loch has no superior. The best inland course in Britain. Where: Rossdhu House, Luss, Dunbartonshire (01436 655555; www.lochlomond.com)
Green fees: members’ guests 9. Ballybunion (Old Course)
Bill Clinton fell in love with the Old Course at first sight and even his roving eye could be forgiven that haste. It’s a reciprocated infatuation as the coastal village has a statue of the former President, although it is the everlasting monument to golf for which it is better known. Visually, the links has no equal, wild in its setting on the edge of the Atlantic. Golfing porn.
Where: Sandhill Road, Ballybunion, Co Kerry, Ireland (00 353 68 27146; www.ballybuniongolfclub.ie)
Green fees: £75
10. Woodhall Spa
Owned by the English Golf Union, which regularly puts on some good-value green-fee promotions at its heathland headquarters. It may not be a tournament course, but the Hotchkin is the supreme test for the average golfer, holding up every facet of the game to scrutiny. Stay out of the bunkers, keep away from the gorse and heather, plot a route between the trees and a good score awaits. If only.
Where: The Broadway, Woodhall Spa, Lincs (01526 352511; www.woodhallspagolf.co.uk)
Green fees: summer £75; winter £50
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11. Portmarnock
Set on a peninsula, this once private playground of the Dublin distiller John Jameson has a punch in its fearsome final five holes strong enough to incapacitate a buffalo – if you get that far. With water on three sides, the wind can blow unmercifully and then the modern criticisms of the Old Course look very foolish indeed. It is 7,300 yards and every single one of them is a challenge.
Where: Portmarnock, Co Dublin (00 353 1 846 2968; www.portmarnockgolfclub.ie)
Green fees: £110-£130
12. Royal St George’s
Another club that bars female members and, like Muirfield, another links that does not deserve such pompous custodians. It has hosted more Open Championships (13) than any other England course and each time its bunkers have dominated the week. The “Himalayas” bunker of the fourth is the deepest in golf and although pros rarely encounter it, amateurs most definitely do. Great views of Pegwell Bay.
Where: Sandwich, Kent (01304 613090; www.royalstgeorges.com)
Green fees: summer £120; winter £65
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13. Royal Dornoch
It seems apt that it takes such a trek to get to Dornoch, lying as it does 50 miles north of Inverness, as this is the one pilgrimage every golfer should make in their lives. Its remoteness has undoubtedly helped to cultivate its mystique, although nobody leaves there feeling short-changed. This really is pure links golf, requiring subtle trickery and a steely nerve – and that’s just before you get to the domed greens. Play until midnight in the summer.Magical.
Where: Golf Rd, Dornoch, Sutherland (01862 810219; www.royaldornoch. com)
Green fees: summer £78-88; winter £52-58
14. Royal Lytham & St Anne’s
Not a classic links, in the sense that its fairways and dunes are comparatively flat and you cannot see the sea. But this Open Championship course ticks so many of the other boxes it would be churlish to doubt its pedigree. The prevailing wind makes the outward half quite inviting. But the inward nine beckons you like a firing squad.
Where: Links Gate, Lytham St Anne’s, Lancs (01253 724206; www.royal lytham.org)
Green fees: summer £120; winter £90
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15. Royal Troon
Troon is often criticised. All so fairly for its daft no-female-members policy and the over-the-top green fees; all too unfairly for the course itself. It commands a scenic position, possesses bags of quality and, for amateurs at any rate, is a bloody tough outing. The village is a delight, too.
Where: Craigend Road, Troon, Ayrshire (01292 311555; www.royaltroon.com)
Green fees: £220 (including lunch and 18 holes on Portland Course)
16. Royal Liverpool
Made a stunning return to the Open Championship rota last year after a 39-year absence and reminded golf what a course it is. Hoylake might not have the definition of a few links and the flat fairways and internal out-of-bounds will always grate with some, but, to use the Royal and Ancient’s well-worn phrase, “it is what it is”.
Where: Meols Drive, Hoylake (0151-632 3101; www.royal-liverpool-golf.com)
Green fees: summer £135-£185; winter £75-£95
17. Sunningdale
Sunningdale virgins marvel at the turf and whisper earnestly about “the aura of the place”. They then repeat these exhortations every time they return to the finest layout on the Surrey sandbelt. Sunningdale is that sort of place and the Old Course is its pride and joy. The clubhouse is also pretty special.
Where: Ridgemount Rd, Sunningdale, Berkshire (01344 621681; www.sunningdale-golfclub.co.uk)
Green fees: summer £170; winter £105
18. Kingsbarns
Modern links courses do not necessarily mean bad ones, as this near neighbour of St Andrews has emphatically proved since its opening in 2000. Kyle Phillips’s award-winning vision somehow combines the ruggedness of a coastal course with the perfect, not a blade out of place, condition of the best inland layouts.
Where: Kingsbarns, St Andrews, Fife (01334 460860; www.kingsbarns.com)
Green fees: summer £160 (Scottish residents £62)
19. Ganton
On playing this you might find a few things perplexing. Firstly, that it’s widely classed as a heathland course and not a links. Second, that it’s in Yorkshire and not, say, Surrey. It truly does have the sandy feel of a Royal St George’s and the sumptuous quality of a Sunningdale.
Where: Ganton, nr Scarborough, North Yorkshire (01994 710329; www.gantongolfclub.com)
Green fees: £73-£83
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20. Lahinch
With the backdrop of the beautiful beach of Liscannor Bay, Lahinch is a veritable supermodel of a links. A little too quirky to match the very best courses; nevertheless, it is a lot more fun to play than some of those on the Open Championship rota. The greens are expertly contoured and the fairways unremitting in their undulations. Where: Lahinch, Co Clare, Ireland (00 353 65 7081003; www.lahinchgolf. com)
Green fees: £105
21. Waterville
In many ways it is the Irish Dornoch, although it could even rival the Scottish outpost for scenery being surrounded by sea. Defined by its brilliant collection of par fours and a par-five 18th, which skirts the Atlantic that will take the breath away. Meanwhile, the wind will probably take the ball away.
Where: Waterville, Co Kerry, Ireland (00 353 66 9474102; www.watervillehouse.com)
Green fees: £80-£110
22. Wentworth
The most televised course in Britain, its holes have been played by countless armchair golfers over the years. In real life, the spectacular West Course is even more demanding, especially with the trees flanking each fairway.
Where: Wentworth Drive, Virginia Water, Surrey (01344 842201; www.wentworth club.com
Green fees: summer £285; winter £115-£165
23. Walton Heath
Too tough for the average hacker, although that should not necessarily put them off a humbling. This heathland course has it all and despite being too cramped in areas to rival Woodhill Spa and Sunningdale in the top 50 chart, when the heather is in flower the Old Course beats both of those for natural beauty. Not so beautiful, however, when the stuff grabs your ball and refuses to give it back. Which it does. Often.
Where: Deans Lane, Tadworth, Surrey (01737 812380; www.whgc.co.uk)
Green fees: summer £100-£120; winter £85-£105
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24. Gleneagles
The springy moorland turf is easy to play off and as “the King’s” is the best moorland course in the world, this must therefore be one of the most enjoyable courses in the world. The opulent hotel obviously adds to the experience, although it is the heavenly scenes from the tees that stick in the memory. It is designed so each hole feels like its own private course. Ben Vorlich looks down with a hint of envy.
Where: Gleneagles Hotel, Auchterarder, Perthshire (01764 662231; www.gleneagles.com)
Green fees: summer £85-£130; winter £60-£95
25. Royal Porthcawl
The best course in Wales by a distance, but still the links looking across at Swansea Bay a one of Britain’s undiscovered gems. It’s too short to host the Open Championship, which is a pity as the pros would find it a challenge, the severity of which, like all great links courses, is dictated by the conditions. Length alone is not enough as Tiger Woods would testify. In 1995, he suffered a rare defeat here in the Walker Cup to Gary Wolstenholme.
Where: Rest Bay, Porthcawl, Mid Glamorgan (01656 782251; www.royalporthcawl.com)
Green fees: £80-£100
26. Nairn
Not quite Dornoch and sometimes it does suffer because of the comparison with its fellow Highland course. In truth, Nairn is so much more than “a good stopover” for the golfing pilgrims, as it is one of best-maintained links in Britain. The outward holes that hug the shore are particularly exhilarating and the slick, smooth greens defy conventional agronomics. And not too tough (off the yellow tees) for the wayward among us.
Where: Seabank Rd, Nairn (01667 453208; www.nairngolfclub.co.uk) Green fees: summer £75; winter £50
27. Sunningdale (New Course)
The biggest compliment afforded to the New Course is that it is not put to shame by the adjoining Old Course, as is usually the way at two-layout resorts. Indeed, some golfers even prefer Harry Colt’s creation, especially as it is not as tight and hence more forgiving to the driver. Beware, however, as the New is longer and a bigger physical challenge. It helps give Sunningdale the best 36 holes in Britain.
Where: Ridgemount Rd, Sunningdale, Berkshire (01344 621681; www.sunningdale-golfclub.co.uk)
Green fees: summer £130; winter £85
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28. The European Club
Unique in being designed and built by its owner, PatRuddy, and also in the fact that it has 20 holes. Ruddy enlisted the help of a helicopter to find the perfect terrain for his vision and found just that in the tumbling dunes of the east coast, some 30 miles south of Dublin. Rather similar to Kingsbarns in managing to give off an oldie-world feel, while really only being in existence for a little more than a decade. A special experience.
Where: Brittas Bay, Co Wicklow (00 353 404 47415; www.theeuropeanclub.com)
Green fees: summer £120; winter £55
29. County Louth
Thanks to the hosting of the Irish Open three years ago, more people are discovering the course more affectionately known as “Baltray” (after the nearby fishing village). The greens are its strength and their intricacies its chief defence as, to be frank, a number of the holes, particularly on the front nine, are flat and inviting. The holes coming in along the shore are far more spectacular.
Where: Baltray, Drogheda, Co Louth (00 353 419 881530; www.countylouthgolfclub.com)
Green fees: £75-£90
30. Formby
Formby is unique in that the holes run in a loop around the Formby Ladies Club; the variety of the challenge is staggering. Not long, but the bunkers sometimes make it seem that way, although the trees, which give it a decidedly parkland feel, protect the golfer from the worst of the winds. A fine way to wind down from the rigours of the Open layouts.
Where: Golf Rd, Formby, Merseyside (01704 872164; www.formbygolfclub.co.uk)
Green fees: £80-£90
31. Royal St David's
Royal St David’s is as scenic as they come. The pride of north Wales provides probably the best value of any of Britain’s championship courses and is an absolute must on any golfing tick list. The greens are generously large giving the golfer, at times, a false sense of security, while the final five holes that loop through the dunes are the highlight.
Where: Harlech, Gwynedd (01766 780361; www.royalstdavids.co.uk)
Green fees: summer £28- £65; winter £34-£38
32. Saunton (East)
As good a nature reserve as it is a golf course, this links overlooking Braunton Burrows boasts an abundance of orchids and other wild flowers. Its beauty does not end there, however, as between tee and green are some of the most picturesque holes in the land. Nick Faldo is a fan.
Where: Braunton, North Devon (01271 812436; www.sauntongolf.co.uk)
Green fees: summer £60; winter £35
33. The Berkshire (Red)
Six par threes, six par fours, six par fives – the Berkshire is both symmetrical and punishing if the radar is malfunctioning. Perfect for amateurs in the fact that it is not long and the springy heathland turf can be wonderfully flattering. The collection of par threes are the finest in the British Isles.
Where: Swinley Rd, Ascot, Berkshire 01344 621495)
Green fees: £85
34. West Sussex
Its lack of length precludes this beautifully- sculped patch of heathland from being a championship course, but that does not stop it being a brute for the amateurs. If the trees and heather do not get you, the canny placement of bunkers surely will.
Where: Golf Club Lane, Wiggonholt, Pulborough (01798 872563; www.westsussexgolf.co.uk)
Green fees: £75
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35. Notts (Hollinwell)
“Hollinwell offers one of the finest examples of traditional heathland golf in Great Britain,” says the club’s website. You can’t argue with that and it’s baffling why it no longer hosts a toplevel professional event, as it is certainly long enough at 7,000 yards plus.
Where: Hollinwell, Kirkby-in-Ashfield, Nottinghamshire (01623 753225; www.nottsgolfclub.co.uk)
Green fees: summer £66; winter £44-£59
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36. Swinley Forest
Swinley Forest is so exclusive that if the secretary does deem you worthy enough to hand over a green fee, you will likely not see another soul all day. It is millionaire’s golf in every sense, being as charming on the course as eccentric as it is off it. What it lacks in length it makes up for in variety, providing a challenge that demands accuracy.
Where: Coronation Rd, Ascot, Berkshire (01344 874979)
Green fees: summer £66; winter £65 (with a member only)
37. Prestwick
By dint of hosting the first Open Championship in 1860 and 23 thereafter, this course on Prestwick Airport’s flightpath has more history than any other course, bar, perhaps, St Andrews. No two holes are the same and that is the way a good links should be.
Where: 2 Links Rd, Prestwick, Ayrshire (01292 671020; www.prestwickgc.co.uk) F
Green fees: summer £66; winter £110-£140
38. Western Gailes
The clubhouse has views over the Arran to die for, although it’s best to experience the 18 holes before you fling yourself into the sea. Not quite as classy as its fellow Ayrshire coastians, Troon and Turnberry, but still a classic links.
Where: Gailes, Irvine, Ayrshire (01294 311649; www.westerngailes.com)
Green fees: £110-£120
39. Royal West Norfolk
This is a richly varied test that, along with its neighbour, Hunstanton, is perhaps the only true links on the English east coast, north of the Thames Estuary. When the gusts blows here they really blow – 60mph winds are not uncommon.
Where: Brancaster, King’s Lynn, Norfolk (01485 210223)
Green fees: £50-£60
40. Hillside
Another course used for Open qualifying and another good links on that rung just below the great. Hillside is actually adjoining Birkdale and does a fine job of not being dwarfed by that monster. The elevated tees give wonderful views over the challenge of the hole ahead as well as the Irish Sea.
Where: Hastings Rd, Hillside, Southport (01704 567169; www.hillside-golfclub.co.uk)
Green fees: summer £75-£95; winter £55
41. Royal Aberdeen
If the sixth oldest club in the world could boast a back nine as good as its front, then it would be the near the top of this list and would surely have held an Open Championship by now. Perhaps it still should as the inward holes may be flatter and less inspiring, but they give stunning views over the North Sea.
Where: Balgownie Links, Bridge of Don, Aberdeen (01224 702571; www.royalaberdeengolf.com)
Green fees: £100-£120
42. Nefyn & District
Aesthetically, it is the very best in Britain, occupying the Llyn Peninsula and seemingly ready to topple in the sea. Alas, the manicuring is not that great, although that may just be because of the vast numbers of golfers swarming there to sample a course growing ever more popular by the day.
Where: Morfa Nefyn, Pwllheli, (01758 720966; www.nefyn-golfclub. co.uk) Green fees: summer £35-£55; winter £25
43. St Enodoc
Holiday golf doesn’t get any better than this. The dunes are the outstanding feature, especially the beastly 80- footer that guards the sixth hole. The adjoining churchyard is also worth an outing, if only to see John Betjeman’s headstone. He wrote Seaside Golf after a birdie on the course. Sweet poetry, indeed.
Where: Rock, Wadebridge, Cornwall (01208 863216; www.stenodoc. co.uk)
Green fees: summer £50-£60; winter £40-£60
44. Royal Cinque Ports
The challenge is huge and if you haven’t got some shots in the bag by the turn, you may as well pack up and head to the clubhouse as the back nine is where it gets truly tough. Saying that, what this former Open course lacks in definition it sure makes up for in quality, the holes being richly varied and the condition being finely manicured.
Where: Golf Rd, Deal, Kent (01304 374007; www.royalcinqueports.co.uk)
Green fees: summer £80-£90; winter £60-£70
45. North Berwick
For some unfathomable reason, the wind is against you on the front nine holes and then seems to turn into your face just as it’s time to head towards the clubhouse. It is a great test with a great atmosphere. In 2005, females were afforded full voting rights.
Where: Beach Rd, North Berwick, East Lothian (01620 892135; www.northberwickgolfclub.com)
Green fees: summer £62-£80; winter £25-£50
46. Ballyliffin
Often called “the Dornoch of Ireland”, Ballyliffin is similarly remote being the most northern course on the island and the locals joke that it is the only course where it is possible to get seasick driving a buggy. That’s down to the undulating fairways where ripple after ripple of wind can go to your stomach.
Where: Inishowen, Co Donegal, Ireland (00 353 7493 76119; www.ballyliffingolfclub.co.uk)
Green fees: summer £50-£60; winter £40
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47. Woburn
The startling array of chestnut, birch and pine give “the Duke’s” the feel that it’s been there for hundreds of years and not just a few decades. That proliferation of wood inevitably makes it a tight layout and if you are not an accurate driver you could be in for a very long day. The Abbey is a stunning centrepoint to a complex that is well visiting.
Where: Little Brickhill, Milton Keynes, Bucks (01908 370756; www.golfdiscoverwoburn.co.uk)
Green fees: summer £115; winter £105.
48. Little Aston
Little Aston is set in a salubrious part of the Second City and the overwhelming feeling on the lush parkland turf is indeed one of privilege, as it is in the clubhouse where jackets and ties must be worn. The membership is welcoming to visitors, however, and thank goodness for that as their course is a real treat. Beautifully kept, it is not tricked up at all and if one adjective describes this Harry Vardon layout it is “honest”.
Where: Roman Rd, Streetly, West Midlands (0121-353 2942; www.littleastongolf.co.uk)
49. Machrihanish
Until you get to the last few holes, which are decidedly ordinary, this is some golfing experience. It is one of those courses that the pros would probably murder, especially in the right conditions, but for the shorthitting amateur it is as tough as they come. The greens are lightning fast and the first sets the tone by demanding you hit the drive over the beach. Tucked away on the remote Kintyre Peninsula, in the summer you can play deep into the night.
Where: Machrihanish, Campbeltown, Argyll (01586 810213; www.machgolf.com)
Green fees: £40-£75
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50. Alwoodley
There’s a golf course out there between the heather and the gorse, although you might doubt it if your driver is not producing Tiger-like results. Fellow reviewers have called it a “breathtaking heathland experience” and pointed to its standing as a regular on the Open qualifying roster as a benchmark of its excellence. Only Ganton betters it in Yorkshire and only just. There are no spectacular holes, just plenty of good ones, and what makes the day even more pleasurable is the strict rationing of tee times that keeps play moving.
Where: Wigton Lane, Leeds (0113-268 1680; www.alwoodley.co.uk)
Green fees: £55-£80
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